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This was modern India: the coexistence of chaos and spirituality.

“Yes, Amma. I had pav bhaji .”

Two thousand kilometers north, in a glass-and-steel apartment in Mumbai, Arjun’s older sister, Priya, was stuck in a different kind of rhythm.

In Mumbai, Priya left her office at 7:00 PM. She didn’t go to a temple; she went to the chaat stall on the corner. This was her altar. The vendor tossed puffed rice, potatoes, and tangy tamarind chutney into a leaf bowl. The explosion of sweet, sour, spicy, and crunchy on her tongue— that was a religious experience.

Indian culture wasn’t a museum piece. It wasn’t just the yoga, the spices, or the Taj Mahal.